The Return Trip

Cook Inlet

It has been three weeks since my return from Alaska and I still haven't completed my account of the return trip; and so, belated as it is, here goes.

The return trip from Seward, Alaska back to Michigan was (as I said before) not the way I like to travel; but - "A bad day of traveling on a motorcycle is still better than a good day at the office!"

The weather throughout Alaska continued to be mostly overcast with intermittent light rain.  Just enough to require rain gear (rain gear that actually felt good in the high 50 degree temperatures).

The dim side of my headlight had burned out, making it necessary to stop at one of only two Harley Davidson dealerships in all of Alaska, "House of Harley-Davidson and Buell," in Anchorage (and of course I couldn't leave there without buying a long sleeve T-shirt).

Even though the weather was still not very obliging, it didn't stop me from making one final attempt to capture the rugged beauty of the Cook Inlet.

House of Harley-Davidson and Buell in Anchorage

It was hard to motorcycle past the Matanuska Glacier without stopping and to walk on the surface of the massive glacier (the Matanuska is one, perhaps the only one, of the glaciers which one can freely walk on the surface of the glacier without fear of being punished for doing so).  I knew, however, that if I continued to stop at every site along the way the trip would be extended for days; instead, I opted for a couple of photos and somewhat begrudgingly continued on my way.

I had hoped to travel from Tok, Alaska northwest along the Taylor Highway to the "Top of the World Highway" (the same Top of the World Highway that I had missed back in March, when the MichCanSka snowmobile riders trekked to Tok).  It was no longer a reasonable option.  Record rains had raised havoc and now the Taylor Highway was only open for twice a day trips led by a "pace vehicle" which guided a caravan of vehicles along the one-way road.  Once again, given my sense of urgency, I didn't have time for that kind of slow travel and therefore chose to repeat my previous route of travel through Beaver Creek, Yukon Territory.

Four days after leaving Seward I arrived in Watson Lake and was surprised to hear people complaining about the heat. I, of course, was aware of the warmer temperatures, but was surprised to discover that the temperature had in fact risen to 90 degrees Fahrenheit; for me it was PERFECT!

For the first time since leaving New Orleans back in April (some 17,000 miles ago) my motorcycle was a "concern".  It was mysteriously shutting down on me for no apparent reason.  Thus far, each time the engine had quit it restarted without incident - but, what if it suddenly chose another option and stranded me in the middle of nowhere?

Matanuska Glacier

The motorcycle problem had first started in Watson Lake, but it was still a concern as I rode, now miles to the south, in Fort Saint John British Columbia.  Clearly, it had to be checked out.  

Safely making my way to Grande Prairie (where I had been advised that there was a thriving Harley-Davidson dealership), I was greeted "royally"; stopped adjacent to a busy Grande Prairie intersection by the Grande Prairie Police.  After thousands of road miles without incident, I was pulled over because my license plate was hidden by my "luggage".

I advised the officer that I had traveled through 26 states and 5 territories and that - "This was the first time I had been stopped."  He, of course, could hardly care less, and most likely considered that fact a compliment; but, fortunately he let me go and only advised that when I load my gear on tomorrow - "find a way to strap your things in place in such a way that will allow your license plate to be visible."


I appreciated being given a break, but nonetheless can't help thinking that he knew that his advise would be shamefully ignored; after all, it had not been a problem for all these miles, and it was not a safety hazard.


The Harley dealership in Grande Prairie disposed me of $190 and advised me that there was a computer related electrical problem that was advising the onboard computer system that the engine was overheating and therefore needed to shut down.  I was told that it was likely a loose or abraded wire that was causing the problem, but the "guilty" wire could not in fact be found without further research and (obviously) further dollars.

I decided to put wallet back in my pocket and depart - POST HASTE!

Alaska and Back Again

The road out of Alaska and back in again, would take me from Stewart, British Columbia (Hyder, Alaska) to Watson Lake, a long ten hour ride.  The road is paved all the way except for a few minor stretches of gravel road along the way (the longest run of gravel is less than 5 miles long).

The gas stops are few and far between; it's no problem, one just needs to be sure to leave with a full tank of gas and not pass up any gas stations in-between.  It's a nice drive, but only moderately scenic (remember, - everything is relative).

My choice (and my recommendation for a campground) in Watson Lake is the Downtown RV Park.  It is conveniently located (as the name suggests) "downtown" and is within walking distance of most everything there is in Watson Lake.  

There is not a lot to see or do in Watson Lake, when we passed through there in March on the snowmobile trip (see the older blog dated March 4, 2010) I failed to get a picture to the famous Watson Lake Sign Forest; therefore I was intent on correcting that error and also looking through the "forest" in effort if there was a sign from close to home.  The "winner" was Jonesville, Michigan (see photo).

The Northern Lights Centre is another Watson Lake attraction that is quite interesting and in my opinion well worth the minimal cost.  Even if one chooses not to see the movie, it cost nothing to tour the small but interesting facility. 

Originally my thought was to go from Watson Lake west to Whitehorse and then north to Dawson City; but, once again, that was the same route I had traveled in March - Why repeat it? 

As it turned out it was a not moot question; torrential rains in Alaska (on a scale that had not been seen in this area in decades) caused flooding which washed out vast sections of highway throughout a purported 100 miles.  The highway is closed until repairs can be completed (an estimated 6 weeks working around the clock - providing that the weather cooperates).

With that one option eliminated another one was interjected - by missing the turn to Whitehorse and continuing straight to Carcross, I could turn south and go to Skagway (the second most, after Hyder, southerly point of entry into Alaska).

 It was an intriguing option, traveling (for me) an uncharted path, even though it would necessitate backtracking back to Carcross in order to continue north through Alaska.  There are no Alaskan roads leading north out of Skagway, the only option was to return via Carcross; unless, it was possible to take my motorcycle by ferry to Haines, Alaska (an even more intriguing option!)

It was a plan I could (and did) get excited about, the decision was made - off to Skagway.

Skagway was the starting point for the White Pass route to the Klondike during the gold rush; a historic town that was bound to be loaded with things of interest.

The only problem getting to Skagway before dark; with so much spectacular beauty to contend with, it all seemed magnificent to ride by with my camera packed away in my saddle bag (I couldn't do it!)  In the end, it was only darkness that made me pack the camera back in the saddlebag. 

Skagway (according to the 2000 census) has a year around population of 862 residents, but it's a volatile population that doubles over the summer tourist season in order to cope with boat loads of tourists that unload from 2-3 huge cruise ships almost daily, the White Pass Railway and a number of tour busses.

In appearance Skagway reminds me of Dawson City, Yukon Territory; but, despite the fact that Dawson City has more than half again the year around population, Skagway appears much larger.  The reason, Skagway has 900,000 annual tourists (15 times more than that of Dawson City's mere 60,000) that encourage more support services.  

With the volume of tourists flocking downtown, the streets are a swarm of activity up until 8:00 PM when the cruise ships depart and all of the numerous tour buses have long since departed; after the 8:00 o'clock hour, one could "drive a dragster" down main street without fear of striking a single sole!

  

West to Alaska

Mount Robson

After arriving in Jasper around noon it was easy to see that one could get real comfortable in Jasper.  From this location there seemed to be an endless list of possible summer time things to do: from hiking and camping, canoeing, kayaking, whitewater rafting, fishing, bicycling or just     strolling around the small community and taking pictures.  Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately), as the case may be, none of the above was on my agenda for the time being, and I needed to get out of Jasper before the day was done; I had a mission - West to Alaska!

Checking my map, it appeared that Prince George was within striking distance if I could finish my "look-over" of Jasper and get on the road by 2:00 PM at the latest.

The ride to Prince George was a pleasant, but other than the great view of the glacier topped Mount Robson (the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies), an unspectacular ride; given what I just ridden through, I was now somehow almost jaded by all of the beauty of British Columbia, and no longer so easily impressed (a feeling that thankfully did not last long).

It was about 8:30 PM when I arrived in Prince George, giving me plenty of time to find a campground and set up my tent before dark, or so I thought.

Prince George is an industrial city with a sizeable population of over 70,000 people; it known as, "the Northern capital of British Columbia."  With that kind of high praise one would think that finding a campground would be a breeze; but, that was not the case.

After riding on highway 16 from one side of the city to the other (getting lost in the process), and still finding nothing, a local directed me to what must be the only campground in Prince George; Sintich RV Park (south of the city on highway 97), is an excellent RV park.

Bear Glacier

Must have been too excellent!  I spent two days there just catching things up and planning the next move.

There are not always a lot of choices (the highway options are limited when going to Alaska), but from Prince George I could ride up the Alaskan Highway (highway 97) to Fort St. John or continue west on the Yellowhead Highway 16.

Highway 97 was safe, sure, secure and a route I had already traveled on during the snowmobile trip in February-March.  The Yellowhead would offer a new and (for me) un-traveled route; but represented more of a challenge when it connected to highway 37 (the Cassiar Highway) with some gravel and many unknowns - I headed west on the Yellowhead Highway 16.
    

Bear Glacier

Actually, the Yellowhead held one distinct advantage.  It would lead to the southern most highway entry into Alaska (via Stewart, British Columbia) at Hyder, Alaska; and this was the determining factor in selection the route.

It was after 2:00 PM before I departed. It was chilly (no, it was COLD!), and threatening clouds loomed overhead.  Things didn't look good.  The distance from Prince George to Stewart was 434 miles and Mapquest listed it as an 8 1/2 hour ride.  It was too far for me to make it with my late start, and I would have to find a campground en-route.

The threatening clouds began to release a few sprinkles but fortunately just as I was entering the town of McBride - I welcomed the opportunity to grab a coffee and suit up with rain gear.

Predictably after suiting up with rain gear the rain stopped and the sun came out.  I ditched my jacket and kept the pants and boot covers in place (it was easy to replace the jacket if needed and the other attire was still comfortable even with the sun out).

Old Empress Hotel

The Glacier View RV Park, a small campground west of Smithers worked out fine for the night; and the next morning while braking camp and preparing for whatever the day might bring, I struck up a conversation with the girl in the adjacent tent site.  We agreed that since we were both traveling alone and in the same direction, we might as well ride together (at least for a while).

Over breakfast I learned that in fact Lori-Ann Muenzer is a bit of a celebrity.  She informed me that six years ago she had a life changing experience.  Somewhat hesitant (curious, but not wanting to be probing into personal matters), I asked if she cared to share her experience - she responded positively.

I was amazed and impressed to learn that six years ago, at the age of 38, Lori-Ann won Canada's first ever (and to this day only) Olympic Gold Medal in cycling.

Stewart Museum

At an age when most women are enjoying the leisurely life of attending their grand children's sporting events, school band and a host of other activities, Lori- Ann was "beating the pants off" other competitors (some of whom, where perhaps half her age!)

Apparently not one to rest on her laurels, Lori-Ann has her own public speaking company, and is currently working on her degree in photography.

We rode together for the day and eventually connected with highway 37A south and passed through the beautiful Bear Glacier on the way to Stewart, British Columbia.

Stewart British Columbia

Highway 37A south is a short, but fabulously beautiful route which in terms of the glaciations even rivals the Columbia Icefields along the Icefields Parkway (the Bear Glacier's frozen river of ice was an amazing aquamarine color which is sadly lost in the small internet photo).

During its "heyday" it had a population of about 10,000, but today the population of Stewart is less than 500 years-around residents (the summertime population doubles).

In the years following the Klondike Gold Strike, Stewart was a center Canadian mining activity and the Canadian Pacific Railway.  Tucked into a large bay and surrounded by glacier topped mountains, it still has the look of an old Canadian mining town.

Lori-Ann Muenzer in Hyder 

Stewart's huge old Empress Hotel once served as housing for the employees of the Canadian Pacific Railway.  Built in 1908, it still appears - square and upright - as if it were in repairable condition; but (sadly) for what need?


In a similar way, the Stewart Museum serves as stately reminder of better times long past.

From Stewart, British Columbia to Hyder, Alaska is less than three miles; how "neat" it was, to get up in British Columbia, and ride to Alaska for BREAKFAST.

Hyder, Alaska is even smaller than Stewart with a population of only 85 (they must have been hiding when we were there).  Our breakfast was at the  Glacier Inn in Hyder.  It had the atmosphere of an old Western saloon; the "wall-paper" was what must be literally thousands of one dollar bills from nations around the globe, but predominately from the United States.  It seemed as if Wild Bill Hickok could have been dealt his "Dead-Mans Hand" right on this spot.

Glacier Inn in Hyder Alaska

Despite the fact that neither of us had a real travel agenda, we had separate missions and goals which required that we go our separate ways.

We had camped at the same campgrounds Stewart and rode together to as far north as Watson Lake, Yukon Territory before departing on our separate journeys.  Many thanks to Lori-Ann for a "putting-up with me" and Best of Luck with all of your future endeavors.

MichCanSka Completes the Mission

MichCanSka survived their quest to complete the journey from Sault Saint Marie, Michigan to Tok, Alaska; and earned major dollars for the cause of the Diabetes Research Foundation. By all involved it was concluded to be a great success.

Personally my only two misgivings were that, as a driver (and not a snowmobiler), I was unable to make the "Run over the Top of the World" and as a consequence I never made it to Alaska and I never saw the Northern Lights.

Out of the three groups, group one suffered the heaviest burden because of its larger size (28 riders), greater number of older riders and their gender mix (all three female riders were in group one).

On the other hand, they deserve extended accolades for enduring, as well as they did the treacherousness of the long journey.

Of all the riders, group two "forced the issue" and despite the obstacles, and completed the most trail miles of the three groups; by all estimates they are believed to have ridden the trails (and ditches) for most all of, but for a comparatively scant 250 miles, the 4000 miles.

Although, they are justly deserving of praise, it must be pointed out (in defense of the other groups) that they were blessed with a smaller group (17 riders) and, by all accounts, more skilled riders.

Of the three groups, only group three lost riders during the trip; about mid-way ten of the riders (unhappy with the lack of sufficient snow, the subsequent trail conditions and the amount of "ditch banging") they chose to cut their trip short and return home.

Nonetheless, the remaining group three riders "forged ahead" and attempted to catch-up with and join group two (a quest they were never able to accomplish).

One of the things that really surprised me is just how enamored the people are with their life in the desolate environs of the Canadian north. Time and time again, I heard comments like - "I came here on vacation and never left," or "I vacationed here, went home, grabbed my things - and moved" and most common of all "I love it here!"

It would seem that with the long winter season, the high cost of living and the desolation (remember that there are only "roughly" 106,000 people living in the three territories) that the people would anything but happy - such is not the case!

Having returned home, it is now time turn my thoughts back to my motorcycle travels. My Harley is in New Orleans, "patiently" awaiting my return.

Since my return on Tuesday, the weather in Michigan has been very inviting for this, would be, motorcycle rider; but after a month travels, I'm still playing catch-up - I'll keep you posted!

MichCanSka Arrives in Tok, Alaska

After days of trials and tribulations, the 54 MichCanSka riders began, this morning, their quest to complete their journey "over the top" to Tok, Alaska. For Bill Bradfield (the President and founder of MichCanSka) it marked the completion of a dream - three years in the making. For others, it was equally satisfying for each and everyone of them in their own individual and private way.

Unfortunately, despite having traveled for 19 days without incident - two riders had disabling mishaps and were hospitalized with minor injuries. At last word, they will be flying back to Michigan rather than making the arduous journey back by truck.

The rest of the of riders will be the honored guest at a banquet hosted by the city of Tok, and spend the day tomorrow riding the trails around the area of Tok.

The following day they will return, once again, to Dawson and (with the snowmobiles loaded safely) in the trailers, prepare to make the long trip back to Michigan.

Dawson City - How Sweet It Is

After the previous day's ordeal, no one was suggesting that they should try to ride from Ross River to Dawson City.

Was it even possible? Certainly not within the time frame available; the schedule calls for all three groups to meet at the Dawson City, Downtown Hotel on Sunday for a Monday morning departure to Tok, Alaska, and groups two and three are still trailing by one and two days respectively.

Also, additional time is needed in Dawson City to coordinate things for the final trek to Alaska; therefore, the only reasonable choice was to trailer to Dawson City.

Accepting this reality, we departed for Dawson City by first returning back to Carmacks to pick-up the Alaskan Highway and proceed northward.

Am I just getting used to all the beauty or is the road from Carmacks to Dawson really somewhat less filled with scenic wonder (the scenic photo shown, were taken between Ross River and

Carmacks)? For the trip from to Dawson City, I was relieved of the driving responsibility and thus had the opportunity to photograph at will; but, of course, only from one side of the moving vehicle. Even with added opportunity, I took few photos and subsequently deleted many of them as not being worthy of retaining.

We arrived in Dawson City with (much to my pleasure) an hour of daylight remaining. I purposely had not research Dawson on the web; not wanting my own first perceptions of the city to be influenced by others. Whether that decision is correct or not, I will never know; I can, however, say that Dawson City, did not fail to impress me.