The Return Trip

Cook Inlet

It has been three weeks since my return from Alaska and I still haven't completed my account of the return trip; and so, belated as it is, here goes.

The return trip from Seward, Alaska back to Michigan was (as I said before) not the way I like to travel; but - "A bad day of traveling on a motorcycle is still better than a good day at the office!"

The weather throughout Alaska continued to be mostly overcast with intermittent light rain.  Just enough to require rain gear (rain gear that actually felt good in the high 50 degree temperatures).

The dim side of my headlight had burned out, making it necessary to stop at one of only two Harley Davidson dealerships in all of Alaska, "House of Harley-Davidson and Buell," in Anchorage (and of course I couldn't leave there without buying a long sleeve T-shirt).

Even though the weather was still not very obliging, it didn't stop me from making one final attempt to capture the rugged beauty of the Cook Inlet.

House of Harley-Davidson and Buell in Anchorage

It was hard to motorcycle past the Matanuska Glacier without stopping and to walk on the surface of the massive glacier (the Matanuska is one, perhaps the only one, of the glaciers which one can freely walk on the surface of the glacier without fear of being punished for doing so).  I knew, however, that if I continued to stop at every site along the way the trip would be extended for days; instead, I opted for a couple of photos and somewhat begrudgingly continued on my way.

I had hoped to travel from Tok, Alaska northwest along the Taylor Highway to the "Top of the World Highway" (the same Top of the World Highway that I had missed back in March, when the MichCanSka snowmobile riders trekked to Tok).  It was no longer a reasonable option.  Record rains had raised havoc and now the Taylor Highway was only open for twice a day trips led by a "pace vehicle" which guided a caravan of vehicles along the one-way road.  Once again, given my sense of urgency, I didn't have time for that kind of slow travel and therefore chose to repeat my previous route of travel through Beaver Creek, Yukon Territory.

Four days after leaving Seward I arrived in Watson Lake and was surprised to hear people complaining about the heat. I, of course, was aware of the warmer temperatures, but was surprised to discover that the temperature had in fact risen to 90 degrees Fahrenheit; for me it was PERFECT!

For the first time since leaving New Orleans back in April (some 17,000 miles ago) my motorcycle was a "concern".  It was mysteriously shutting down on me for no apparent reason.  Thus far, each time the engine had quit it restarted without incident - but, what if it suddenly chose another option and stranded me in the middle of nowhere?

Matanuska Glacier

The motorcycle problem had first started in Watson Lake, but it was still a concern as I rode, now miles to the south, in Fort Saint John British Columbia.  Clearly, it had to be checked out.  

Safely making my way to Grande Prairie (where I had been advised that there was a thriving Harley-Davidson dealership), I was greeted "royally"; stopped adjacent to a busy Grande Prairie intersection by the Grande Prairie Police.  After thousands of road miles without incident, I was pulled over because my license plate was hidden by my "luggage".

I advised the officer that I had traveled through 26 states and 5 territories and that - "This was the first time I had been stopped."  He, of course, could hardly care less, and most likely considered that fact a compliment; but, fortunately he let me go and only advised that when I load my gear on tomorrow - "find a way to strap your things in place in such a way that will allow your license plate to be visible."


I appreciated being given a break, but nonetheless can't help thinking that he knew that his advise would be shamefully ignored; after all, it had not been a problem for all these miles, and it was not a safety hazard.


The Harley dealership in Grande Prairie disposed me of $190 and advised me that there was a computer related electrical problem that was advising the onboard computer system that the engine was overheating and therefore needed to shut down.  I was told that it was likely a loose or abraded wire that was causing the problem, but the "guilty" wire could not in fact be found without further research and (obviously) further dollars.

I decided to put wallet back in my pocket and depart - POST HASTE!