West to Alaska

Mount Robson

After arriving in Jasper around noon it was easy to see that one could get real comfortable in Jasper.  From this location there seemed to be an endless list of possible summer time things to do: from hiking and camping, canoeing, kayaking, whitewater rafting, fishing, bicycling or just     strolling around the small community and taking pictures.  Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately), as the case may be, none of the above was on my agenda for the time being, and I needed to get out of Jasper before the day was done; I had a mission - West to Alaska!

Checking my map, it appeared that Prince George was within striking distance if I could finish my "look-over" of Jasper and get on the road by 2:00 PM at the latest.

The ride to Prince George was a pleasant, but other than the great view of the glacier topped Mount Robson (the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies), an unspectacular ride; given what I just ridden through, I was now somehow almost jaded by all of the beauty of British Columbia, and no longer so easily impressed (a feeling that thankfully did not last long).

It was about 8:30 PM when I arrived in Prince George, giving me plenty of time to find a campground and set up my tent before dark, or so I thought.

Prince George is an industrial city with a sizeable population of over 70,000 people; it known as, "the Northern capital of British Columbia."  With that kind of high praise one would think that finding a campground would be a breeze; but, that was not the case.

After riding on highway 16 from one side of the city to the other (getting lost in the process), and still finding nothing, a local directed me to what must be the only campground in Prince George; Sintich RV Park (south of the city on highway 97), is an excellent RV park.

Bear Glacier

Must have been too excellent!  I spent two days there just catching things up and planning the next move.

There are not always a lot of choices (the highway options are limited when going to Alaska), but from Prince George I could ride up the Alaskan Highway (highway 97) to Fort St. John or continue west on the Yellowhead Highway 16.

Highway 97 was safe, sure, secure and a route I had already traveled on during the snowmobile trip in February-March.  The Yellowhead would offer a new and (for me) un-traveled route; but represented more of a challenge when it connected to highway 37 (the Cassiar Highway) with some gravel and many unknowns - I headed west on the Yellowhead Highway 16.
    

Bear Glacier

Actually, the Yellowhead held one distinct advantage.  It would lead to the southern most highway entry into Alaska (via Stewart, British Columbia) at Hyder, Alaska; and this was the determining factor in selection the route.

It was after 2:00 PM before I departed. It was chilly (no, it was COLD!), and threatening clouds loomed overhead.  Things didn't look good.  The distance from Prince George to Stewart was 434 miles and Mapquest listed it as an 8 1/2 hour ride.  It was too far for me to make it with my late start, and I would have to find a campground en-route.

The threatening clouds began to release a few sprinkles but fortunately just as I was entering the town of McBride - I welcomed the opportunity to grab a coffee and suit up with rain gear.

Predictably after suiting up with rain gear the rain stopped and the sun came out.  I ditched my jacket and kept the pants and boot covers in place (it was easy to replace the jacket if needed and the other attire was still comfortable even with the sun out).

Old Empress Hotel

The Glacier View RV Park, a small campground west of Smithers worked out fine for the night; and the next morning while braking camp and preparing for whatever the day might bring, I struck up a conversation with the girl in the adjacent tent site.  We agreed that since we were both traveling alone and in the same direction, we might as well ride together (at least for a while).

Over breakfast I learned that in fact Lori-Ann Muenzer is a bit of a celebrity.  She informed me that six years ago she had a life changing experience.  Somewhat hesitant (curious, but not wanting to be probing into personal matters), I asked if she cared to share her experience - she responded positively.

I was amazed and impressed to learn that six years ago, at the age of 38, Lori-Ann won Canada's first ever (and to this day only) Olympic Gold Medal in cycling.

Stewart Museum

At an age when most women are enjoying the leisurely life of attending their grand children's sporting events, school band and a host of other activities, Lori- Ann was "beating the pants off" other competitors (some of whom, where perhaps half her age!)

Apparently not one to rest on her laurels, Lori-Ann has her own public speaking company, and is currently working on her degree in photography.

We rode together for the day and eventually connected with highway 37A south and passed through the beautiful Bear Glacier on the way to Stewart, British Columbia.

Stewart British Columbia

Highway 37A south is a short, but fabulously beautiful route which in terms of the glaciations even rivals the Columbia Icefields along the Icefields Parkway (the Bear Glacier's frozen river of ice was an amazing aquamarine color which is sadly lost in the small internet photo).

During its "heyday" it had a population of about 10,000, but today the population of Stewart is less than 500 years-around residents (the summertime population doubles).

In the years following the Klondike Gold Strike, Stewart was a center Canadian mining activity and the Canadian Pacific Railway.  Tucked into a large bay and surrounded by glacier topped mountains, it still has the look of an old Canadian mining town.

Lori-Ann Muenzer in Hyder 

Stewart's huge old Empress Hotel once served as housing for the employees of the Canadian Pacific Railway.  Built in 1908, it still appears - square and upright - as if it were in repairable condition; but (sadly) for what need?


In a similar way, the Stewart Museum serves as stately reminder of better times long past.

From Stewart, British Columbia to Hyder, Alaska is less than three miles; how "neat" it was, to get up in British Columbia, and ride to Alaska for BREAKFAST.

Hyder, Alaska is even smaller than Stewart with a population of only 85 (they must have been hiding when we were there).  Our breakfast was at the  Glacier Inn in Hyder.  It had the atmosphere of an old Western saloon; the "wall-paper" was what must be literally thousands of one dollar bills from nations around the globe, but predominately from the United States.  It seemed as if Wild Bill Hickok could have been dealt his "Dead-Mans Hand" right on this spot.

Glacier Inn in Hyder Alaska

Despite the fact that neither of us had a real travel agenda, we had separate missions and goals which required that we go our separate ways.

We had camped at the same campgrounds Stewart and rode together to as far north as Watson Lake, Yukon Territory before departing on our separate journeys.  Many thanks to Lori-Ann for a "putting-up with me" and Best of Luck with all of your future endeavors.

Nez Perce Fight Big Oil

A week ago, while eating breakfast in Kalispell, Montana and glancing through "The Missoulian" (the apparent newspaper of choice in Kalispell), when an article "Nez Perce: No big rigs across their reservation," caught my eye.

I'm ashamed to admit that my first thought was that the Nez Perce were probably "grabbing" on to some environmental issue simply because as Native Americans they wield considerable power.

As I read the article, however, I had to admit that they had a real issue, and in fact it appeared that most of the real "wielding of power" was coming from the other side in the form of some major muscle from, you guessed it, - BIG OIL.

The project is officially known as the Kearl Oil Sands Project and together with the Alberta Tar Sands, it has been called - "...possibly the largest industrial project in human history" (quite a statement).  

The Nez Perce make no attempt to hide the fact that their opposition is not only with the movement of oil field equipment through pristine areas designated as "wild and scenic," but also with the scope of the entire projects environmental impact.

Protagonists for the environment point that this type of mining discharges 3 times the CO2 gasses into the environment that conventional oil field operations do.

Essentially oil sands mining is akin to open pit mining that will have a devastating impact on the environment for years to come (the project is currently slated to continue for a minimum of 50 years).

In terms of the Nez Perce current issues with the project (the movement of oil rig equipment over Native American lands), there seems to be no question that have a very valid concern.

The size of the behemoth truck "rigs" to move the equipment is mind boggling.  They are said to be 12 times the size of a normal semi-truck, are 140-210 feet long, approximately 30 feet high, 25 feet wide and fully loaded will haul loads up to 140 tons (by other accounts - roughly 500,000 pounds!)

Exxon Mobil's current plan calls for them to move the monster sized loads over the winding two lane (32 feet wide) highway - AT NIGHT!  Incredibly believable!

They could of course, in all likelihood, move the needed equipment by using more conventional trucks, but that would jeopardize the sanctity of Exxon Mobil's sacred profits.

It seems that the Nez Perce have valid concerns and I wish them in their efforts.        

The Canadian Rockies and the Icefields Parkway

From Fort Macleod the plan was to ride to Calgary 107 miles due north and turn west for Banff National Park (Canada's oldest national park established in 1885).  This would be my second time at Banff (another ski trip), but the first in the summer time.

Approaching Banff the white capped soaring peaks began to appear in the distance, but with the overcast skies they were markedly less dramatic (although, they were still a cause to stop and take photographs en-route).

On the ski trip we had actually skied at Lake Louise (35 miles to the north), but had visited Banff in order to see the city and, in particular, the famous Banff Springs Hotel (now the Fairmont Banff Springs).  Built in 1886 by Sir William Van Horne, the manager of the Canadian Pacific Railway, it is still used as a symbol for the Banff area.

The majestic 770 room hotel looks even larger than 770 rooms.  I wanted to capture its splendor, but despite all my efforts, I wasn't able to find the road above the hotel that would provide a clear and unrestricted view for that one - Great Photograph.

Reluctantly resigning myself to accept the photographs "as is" I rode through the center of the bustling city, where hundreds of tourists were seemingly bent expending "their hard earned dollars" before returning from their vacations.  

However, despite the abundance of opportunities, I had no interest in shopping and therefore departed the Banff on a route to Lake Louise.  My intent was to connect with highway 93 and begin on a northward bearing toward Jasper, Alberta.

 A short distance outside of Banff I came to a detour sending me on an off-course route to Lake Louise.  Although being behind schedule (What schedule!), I reasoned that this might in fact be a fun scenic route, and - I was right!  It was barely three miles after beginning the detour, when I rounded a curve where five big horn sheep rams, were peacefully grazing beside the road.

At least they had appeared peaceful; however, before I could remove my camera from my saddle bag, I was startled by the cracking sound of horns crashing together.  I looked up just in time to see the two rams rearing-up and banging there horns together once again.  Although, I missed the photograph, I had "caught" the memory - and it was a memorable sight indeed. 

The distance from Lake Louise to Jasper was 143 miles (230 kilometers), too far to make it before darkness would set in and I was without a clue as to whether there would be any campsites along the route from Lake Louise to Jasper.  Even knowing that Jasper was a national park, I still did not know where the park began and ended.   

The Lake Louise Information Centre provided the needed information; campgrounds were indeed located all along the route separated by 12-20 miles. 

Highway 93 between Lake Louise and Jasper is known as the Icefields Parkway.  The brochure from the information centre called it "The Most Beautiful Road in the World;" a claim that has been reported to them by "many seasoned travelers."  I could not agree more - it is an amazingly spectacular stretch of highway.

With only a few hours to spare before darkness would set in, it was difficult to ride without stopping at each of the numerous stopping points - and even inventing some of my own to "snap" one more photograph - and so, I hit them all (or so it seemed).

After passing up the Rampart Creek campsite, I stopped for gas and was told that the next campsite was "about" 8 kilometers either way (to the north or the south); after 32 kilometers to the north (don't believe all of the information you get) I found the Wilcox Creek campground, a mere 3 miles from the Columbia Icefields Centre, and set up the tent for the night.  

Who would have thought that it would be so cold a 3 miles from the Columbia Icefields (duh!!!)?  Over night the temperature dropped to 4 degrees Celsius (39 degrees Fahrenheit).  Despite of that, I slept surprisingly well.

Riding in the early morning, it wasn't much warmer; and as any "true" motorcycle rider can attest, riding at 40 degrees takes some of the fun away.  After a 32 mile ride to Sunwapta Falls Junction, - coffee never tasted so good!  

Back on the road the air had warmed considerably and the marvel of the Columbia Icefields Parkway continued; but, with a surprising twist.

With only 19 miles of parkway remaining the Athabasca Falls was a pleasant change from the mountains and the glaciers (although their is still no escaping the beauty provided by the mountain as a backdrop to the falls). 

      

        

            

   

Montana and on to Canada

With a late departure from Craters of the Moon Nation Monument the next stop was at an RV Park in Mackay, Idaho.

It had seemed like (when passing through) that "-Utah has more horses than any other state."  It is not true, of course, but from my perspective, through the chosen route of travel, and on a motorcycle - that was my honest perception.

Now, in Idaho there seemed to be little difference (at first).  In Pocatello, local fairgrounds had been preparing for a horseshow, and horses were everywhere.

Nonetheless, as much as the Idahoan's still love their horses the four-wheeler seems to be "taking over" and are the current vogue and now - "they" are everywhere!  The RV Parks are filled with trailers loaded with four-wheelers, they run streets (and even the highways, in smaller towns), are parked at restaurants and (shudder) the bars.

Mackay is small town on highway 93 that seems to caters to four-wheeler's in a big way, and is a prime example of a town taken over by four-wheeler's.  The hillsides leading to 10,000 foot snowcapped peaks are apparently all the invitation that is needed.

Years ago when traveling through Idaho, I remember seeing scores of potato "barns;" but on this trip they seemed surprisingly lacking (was it due to new technology or was it just this area of Idaho?)

Mackay is only about 252 miles from Missoula, Montana, but with stops along way I knew that it was likely to be a two days motorcycle ride - and it was.  The day ended at Hamilton, Montana a mere 40 miles south of Missoula, but since it was a sizeable town with internet cafes and a visible RV park, Hamilton it would be!

Since leaving Utah, it had been a steady progression, a sort of "Greening of America;" and now, in Montana it was as if it had come to full strength.  Take away the mountains, and my thoughts even drifted to Michigan; but not for long, the only similarity is the color green!

Things were piling up, there had been no time breaks between stops, no time to blog, no time to address those nagging prevailing issues we all have and not even time for laundry; and so, it was two days later before gear was loaded on the motorcycle for Kalispell, Montana.

Kalispell was only 167 miles from Hamilton, but it was near the entry to Glacier National Park and therefore a perfect stopping point.

For some unknown reason (perhaps, it was because as a young man I had romanticized visions of going to smoke jumpers school and then working during summer breaks from college) Missoula held an attraction for me, and it was hard to just pass through without stopping; but there was no real reason to stop after only 40 miles, and so it was on to Kalispell.

Kalispell is, as an acquaintance turned friend, described, "is a great place to live and great place to retire;" strange words coming from an unemployed 42 year old man, but as an ex-patriot from Iowa he obviously was infatuated with Kalispell.

With my short time there and my limited exploration, it is hard to pass judgment, but for the sportsman, hunting and fishing abound and it is beautiful country.

My time there was extended as I still endeavored to bring things back together, and as the weather provided three days of on-again, off-again rain.  The mail from Michigan had finally caught up with me and, for the time being, those nagging personal issues had been taken care; and so, despite the weather, it was now time to go!"

And so, with some hesitation (the hope was for clear skies sunshine while riding through Glacier National Park) I loaded the motorcycle and departed from Kalispell to drive through Glacier National Park.

Actually, in spite of the forecast the overcast skies were rather pleasant despite the cool air.  It seemed good to be back on the road after having spent several days in Kalispell.

The road from West Glacier to Marysville (the east side entry to Glacier National Park) travels over Logan's Pass by way of "the Road to the Sun," and winds its way past Lake McDonald and the often times raging whitewater of the Flathead River before reaching the highway's summit at the Logan Pass Visitors Center.

The rain held off for most of the way, and provided some views, but it was hard not to wonder what clear skies and sunshine might have provided.  Sometimes the cloudy skies provide spectacular photos, but it seemed for the most part that such was not to be.

The rain increased as I approached Logan Pass; my finger tips seemed as though they were about to freeze as my gloves were now soaked with rain.  Until then, the rain had been only fleeting, and still it was only a drizzle; but at nearly 9000 feet of elevation, and with air cooled to (an estimated 40 degrees) it was a "bit" of a chilly motorcycle ride!

Even with the rain I could see that Logan's Pass was a spectacular view, but with the rain and cold I bore on without stopping, and arrived at St. Mary's (the eastern entry to Glacier) about 5:30 PM.

With no campgrounds in sight (it was too early to end the day anyway), and hoping to make it well into Canada before nightfall, I continued on.

Given my past record (and knowing that the gas stations are often hard to find in Canada) I made sure that the tank was filled before leaving for Canada.  There was a third reason; of course, the gases prices in Canada can hurt you!

Entering into Alberta from this point, was crossing into unknown territory and I was somewhat surprised by the distances between cities.  When I stopped for the night at Fort MacLeod (a distance of approximately 50 miles) only two cities had been passed.

Arco Idaho and the Craters of the Moon National Landmark

From to Provo, Utah to Pocatello, is barely over 200 miles and a straight shot on I-15.  I tried to stay on course and follow highway 89, but it eventually deserted me and turned east.  Defeated, I joined the interstate and made my way to Pocatello.

Still striving to catch some mail from Michigan I spent two days in Pocatello before leaving on an eagerly anticipated trip through the Salmon River Mountains en route to Missoula, Montana.


I-15 is, of course, the route of choice for most travelers eager to get from one spot to next, but I turned west on US-26 and eventually connected to US-93.  My quest was to take the slow, easy and scenic route and continue to reap all of the awesome beauty that America has to offer.


Even though Arco was only a few miles to the west of Craters of the Moon National Landmark and my location was no more than tem miles from the turn-off, I was surprised to find outcroppings from obvious volcanic activity scattered randomly throughout the area.  Taking pictures along the highway, I was strangely oblivious to the fact that these were the scattered remnants of the massive upheavals that would later be found at Craters of the Moon.




To further my surprise, at a (Point of Historical Interest) it was posted, "Since 1949 more nuclear reactors - over 50 of them - have been built on this plain than anywhere else in the world."  This seemed like an astounding fact and I was amazed by my ignorance (Hold you tongue!) - Why had I never heard even a whisper of this before?


Added to this, was the fact that, tiny Arco (population 1026 as of the 2000 census) was the location for the worlds first nuclear energy plant and the first city "In the WORLD" to be lighted by Atomic Power.  This was accomplished on December 20, 1951 and lasted for only one hour before, they apparently "corrected the PROBLEM" and restored normal power - they had earned their place in history.

Stopping in Arco I debated about driving to Craters of the Moon National Monument or bypassing it all together.  Fortunately, I made the former choice for which I am extremely grateful - I enjoyed Craters of the Moon TREMENDOUSLY!

With only a vague idea of what to expect, and I was truly amazed by the incredible site.  It is an amazing and spectacular site.  There are mountains of ash, vast sprawling fields variously filled with lava flows and volcanic rock and even caves (called lava tubes) left by years of volcanic activity.

This area is known as "The Valley of the Lost River" so named for the Lost River that literally disappears as it sinks beneath the lava flows of Craters of the Moon National Monument only to resurface once again, in the form of springs near Idaho Falls.

Without being there, one would, perhaps question how interesting such a site could be, but is truly an amazing place.  Some of the pictures appear as if I have opted to include black and white photos as a change of venue, but such is not the case.  The lava flows "vary" from a flat black to a shiny-glossy black.

The Beauty of Utah

Bryce Canyon is in southern Utah, and it would take me another day and half to complete my journey through the state after allowing for an overnight stop at the KOA campground in Provo, Utah.  I had been waiting on a package that was being sent (first) to my home in Michigan, and then, my son Sean, was going to forward the package to the KOA in Provo as soon as it arrived.  The only problem, it never arrived Michigan (and it still hasn't).

The KOA's are always (from my experience) excellent campgrounds with first class amenities, but they are a little "pricey" considering that I seldom use any of the amenities beyond the shower and laundry room.  On a tight budget, I choose to avoid the KOA for this reason, and this reason only (if your budget allows it, I highly recommend the KOA campgrounds).

Provo, with a population of over 115,000, is no small town, but it is Spartan clean and with the snowcapped mountains for highlight it is a sight to behold.  Although I have never been to Switzerland, the scene from downtown Provo provided an example of what I imagine it might look like.    

Despite the city attraction, When the package was not able to ship out of Michigan I chose not to extent my stay in Provo and set out the next day for Pocatello, Idaho.

People are always asking me if I'm fun and just reply with a shrug - sure.  Not very affirmative, but the truth is - You're DAMN RIGHT I'm having fun!  Why wouldn't I be, everyday brings a whole new set of experiences and more and things to see and photograph.

Photography is for me a big part of the fun, and it is always a struggle to keep myself from stopping to photograph something at each bend on the road.  If I had succumbed to all of the temptations I would still be in TEXAS!

The beautiful Mormon, Manti Temple in Manti, Utah, is only one small example of one of the many temptations.
  
Following the orders of Brigham Young, the temple was built with the donated Mormon labor of the practitioners who quarried the stone from this very site.  It took them eleven years to complete the structure, but in 1888 it was completed and still graces the city of Manti - what a beautiful sight to behold!

Utah and Bryce Canyon

Each state seems more wondrous than the last, and yet I know that it is just a matter of the time frame; living in the present makes it so.

I have spent very little time in Utah and it has always been while just passing through or on a ski trip which gives one a very limited perspective.  In traveling through Utah now, it's as if I'm seeing the state for the first time, and I like what I see!

Although, even now, I know that my time here will be all too brief, but I'm happy to have the opportunity to relish as much as possible.

My image of Utah is of giant sandstone multi-shaped rock formations and that image seems ever present, but then too, there is another image that seems out of context.  This is an image that I was surprised to find; but as I traveled north out of Kanab there were beautiful peaceful looking valleys, winding streams, an elk farm and green grassy areas (although, still framed in the sandstone cliffs) that contrasted sharply with the otherwise harsh desert like terrain.  This tranquility, however, seemed short lived as I turned east towards Bryce National Park my original image was restored.

It was mid-afternoon as I rode into the aptly named Red Canyon, the gateway to Bryce Canyon.  Red Canyon is still outside of Bryce Canyon itself and is a drawing card all by itself with numerous outfitters, backpackers and horseback trail riding tours being offered to lure prospective tourists.

As I rode through Bryce Canyon I couldn't help thinking that it would be a great parwondrous,living in the present,Utah and Bryce Canyon,traveling,peaceful looking valleys,campgrounds,riding tours,riding the motorcyclek for backpacking.  There is so much to see from the overlooks, but I would have very liked to have experience the views from the bottom of the canyon.

From one end of the park to other is a mere 16 miles, but it is a spectacular park with great and unusual vistas.  Despite its relatively small size, following the winding road through the canyon and stopping to experience and photograph the great vistas, I found myself running short of time.  At the eleven mile point I turned around in order to exit park or find a campsite at one of the numerous campgrounds within the park.

It was approaching dusk as I turned into one of the north end campgrounds near the entry to the park.  There was still space available, but although I knew this would be my cheapest alternative I exited the campground and the park (I was hungry there wasn't any food available inside the park at this hour).                              

What I thought was perhaps my next best choice, Ruby's Inn Park & Campground and Motel, was built in 1919 to service tourist visiting Bryce Canyon and was first known as "Tourist Rest.  Despite its long history I would give it a "3" on a scale of one to ten.

From my experience, I found Ruby's Inn to be both expensive and ill equipped (only one of the two bathroom facilities have showers and there are no paved roads), which is appalling considering their prices.  My recommendation for anyone going there would be to find a spot within the national park (their still will not be any paved roads, but there are at least showers) and you will save money too boot.

I should add that my harsh assessment of Ruby's was further aggravated by the fact that the only food they had available was grocery store snacks.  The only reason I had stopped there in the first place was in order to get both food and a camp site; but by that time I was too paranoid about the very real possibility of hitting a deer or elk to risk riding the motorcycle even for the short ride back to the campground inside the park.