Sunday, July 11, 2010

The Canadian Rockies and the Icefields Parkway

From Fort Macleod the plan was to ride to Calgary 107 miles due north and turn west for Banff National Park (Canada's oldest national park established in 1885).  This would be my second time at Banff (another ski trip), but the first in the summer time.

Approaching Banff the white capped soaring peaks began to appear in the distance, but with the overcast skies they were markedly less dramatic (although, they were still a cause to stop and take photographs en-route).


On the ski trip we had actually skied at Lake Louise (35 miles to the north), but had visited Banff in order to see the city and, in particular, the famous Banff Springs Hotel (now the Fairmont Banff Springs).  Built in 1886 by Sir William Van Horne, the manager of the Canadian Pacific Railway, it is still used as a symbol for the Banff area.

The majestic 770 room hotel looks even larger than 770 rooms.  I wanted to capture its splendor, but despite all my efforts, I wasn't able to find the road above the hotel that would provide a clear and unrestricted view for that one - Great Photograph.
Reluctantly resigning myself to accept the photographs "as is" I rode through the center of the bustling city, where hundreds of tourists were seemingly bent expending "their hard earned dollars" before returning from their vacations.  

However, despite the abundance of opportunities, I had no interest in shopping and therefore departed the Banff on a route to Lake Louise.  My intent was to connect with highway 93 and begin on a northward bearing toward Jasper, Alberta.



 A short distance outside of Banff I came to a detour sending me on an off-course route to Lake Louise.  Although being behind schedule (What schedule!), I reasoned that this might in fact be a fun scenic route, and - I was right!  It was barely three miles after beginning the detour, when I rounded a curve where five big horn sheep rams, were peacefully grazing beside the road.

At least they had appeared peaceful; however, before I could remove my camera from my saddle bag, I was startled by the cracking sound of horns crashing together.  I looked up just in time to see the two rams rearing-up and banging there horns together once again.  Although, I missed the photograph, I had "caught" the memory - and it was a memorable sight indeed. 

The distance from Lake Louise to Jasper was 143 miles (230 kilometers), too far to make it before darkness would set in and I was without a clue as to whether there would be any campsites along the route from Lake Louise to Jasper.  Even knowing that Jasper was a national park, I still did not know where the park began and ended.   

The Lake Louise Information Centre provided the needed information; campgrounds were indeed located all along the route separated by 12-20 miles. 

Highway 93 between Lake Louise and Jasper is known as the Icefields Parkway.  The brochure from the information centre called it "The Most Beautiful Road in the World;" a claim that has been reported to them by "many seasoned travelers."  I could not agree more - it is an amazingly spectacular stretch of highway.

With only a few hours to spare before darkness would set in, it was difficult to ride without stopping at each of the numerous stopping points - and even inventing some of my own to "snap" one more photograph - and so, I hit them all (or so it seemed).

After passing up the Rampart Creek campsite, I stopped for gas and was told that the next campsite was "about" 8 kilometers either way (to the north or the south); after 32 kilometers to the north (don't believe all of the information you get) I found the Wilcox Creek campground, a mere 3 miles from the Columbia Icefields Centre, and set up the tent for the night.  

Who would have thought that it would be so cold a 3 miles from the Columbia Icefields (duh!!!)?  Over night the temperature dropped to 4 degrees Celsius (39 degrees Fahrenheit).  Despite of that, I slept surprisingly well.

Riding in the early morning, it wasn't much warmer; and as any "true" motorcycle rider can attest, riding at 40 degrees takes some of the fun away.  After a 32 mile ride to Sunwapta Falls Junction, - coffee never tasted so good!  

Back on the road the air had warmed considerably and the marvel of the Columbia Icefields Parkway continued; but, with a surprising twist.

With only 19 miles of parkway remaining the Athabasca Falls was a pleasant change from the mountains and the glaciers (although their is still no escaping the beauty provided by the mountain as a backdrop to the falls). 




















      
        
            




   

1 comment:

  1. Rex

    This stuff looks familiar, somewhat like the trip from MichCanSka.

    Frank Hemel
    fhemel@yahoo.com

    ReplyDelete