Haines Junction Yukon Territory - At Last

Mike Howard and Sockeye Salmon

Still determined to make to Haines Junction, I nonetheless, stopped in the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve to check with a fisherman there.

Mike Howard, originally from Palm Springs, California, has been living Alaska for twelve years.  Gregarious and likeable, with a shock of white hair and beard, he characterizes himself as a subsistence fisherman (which has a legal precedence in Alaska).  By law he can gillnet up to a limited number of fish (depending on the breed) for his or his families own consumption.

On the day I was there, he was busy cleaning his catch of sockeye salmon (which he had already gifted to a friend).

Three Photos From Klukwan Alaska

He had a small contingency of friends who kept dropping by (possibly because he apparently made it a practice to give away part of his catch).

Proceeding on my way to Haines Junction, I passed a sign indicating a left turn to Porcupine.  It was still early in the day and Haines Junction was only about a three hour ride and the road towards Porcupine was paved.  And so, I reasoned - why not check it out?

The road to Porcupine crossed over the Chilkat River where a sign at the edge of the roadway proclaimed that this was the historic Dalton Trail, and that nine miles up the road was Porcupine; the site of the Porcupine Mine discovery.

I continued, hoping to find an old Ghost Town and the Porcupine Mine.  Less than a quarter of mile later, the paved road turned to gravel.  Although, not particularly "motorcycle friendly" it was firm gravel with bumps and pot holes, but no sand (I could handle the bumps and pot holes).

Traveling slowly and with care, there were signs of ongoing logging activity, but no mining was evident until at the 8 1/2 mile point, where the road forked and sign was posted "Big Nugget Mine."  A gate potentially blocked the road, but the gate was open, and so I continued on, assuming that since there were no signs warning - "No Trespassing" - it was safe to proceed.

After taking pictures of the Big Nugget mining office, I turned around and left the area - still fearing that I was trespassing.  I never found the old settlement of Porcupine which was said to have had a population of about 500 during the peak mining years.

It was already getting late, but I was having too much fun just exploring; and so, I decided to continue my foolishness.

Turning down one the few side roads, I found the peaceful looking "Chilkat Valley Farm;" a small idyllic pastoral setting neatly tucked into the valley - just "oozing" peace and tranquility.  It was so neatly (or perhaps even, lovingly) maintained homestead that it was almost impossible not to feel comforted by the setting.  I had to assume from the setting that it was a totally organic farm (but there was nothing there to confirm my supposition).

After returning the highway I came to a sign indicating a left turn to Klukwan; since I was on a roll - why not?

I found Klukwan discomforting in a way; in spite of the junk cars and junk "everything" discarded with an "I don't care attitude" there were remnants of a past that showed great pride in what once were architectural homes of character, with beautiful facades that are, even today, impossible to ignore.

Three Photos - on the Road to Haines Junction 

It was sad to see these homes still striving to maintain the dignity that they once held, a dignity that was now lost forever; and it was impossible for me not wonder how the residents of Klukwan could leave buildings and homes, such as these, to decay beyond repair before there very eyes - how sad!

In spite of the "side ventures" the third effort to make to Haines Junction was a success, but it took much longer to cover the 160 miles than one would suspect (about 7 hours). It was not only the side ventures, but the trip itself was one of fantastic beauty; made more unique by the forested mountains and grassy mountainsides.