Haines Alaska

Ferry From Skagway to Haines

Everything worked as hoped; it was indeed possible to take the ferry by motorcycle and go either to Juneau or Haines, Alaska.  Juneau (while it would be nice to see the capital city) would still leave me landlocked; there are no roads in or out of Juneau.

At the rate of $100 each way, Juneau was never a viable option, and in the morning I left for Haines.

The ferry ride was somewhat disappointing, the anticipated souring glaciers were no where to be seen.

In contrast, Haines is a beautiful city; or more accurately, it is a beautiful setting.

Looking across the bay my eyes were drawn to the site of the large homes that adorned the mountainside.  As picturesque as the view was, however, the clouds so thoroughly obscured the mountains that, it was not until later when I saw that very image displayed frequently around Haines and on brochures promoting the area, when I fully realized I was missing much of what must be a truly breathtaking sight - the souring mountain peaks, as a backdrop to Fort Seward, that make the image a favorite of artists and photographers alike.
  
I did not realize at the time that I looking at the site of the military base of old Fort Seward, but I knew that the site would be my first stop.

Even though, as captivated as I was by the sight of the large homes across the bay of open water
I would never see that entire image in its full glory.  Unrelenting, the clouds never broke.

Today the large buildings that once served as officer quarters, administrative headquarters, medical centers and the like, have now been converted into hotels and condominiums.  Further below them and across the old parade and exercise field stands the one remaining (of the original two) huge 2 1/2 story barracks building.  Too costly to repair, it stands as a sadly decaying hulk.

The setting was perfect, my campsite was owned by the Halsingland Hotel (one of the hotels converted from the old officers quarters); and was low priced, had WiFi, showers, laundry and a bar/restaurant - all of the amenities of home!

Smaller and lacking the hoards of tourists that highlight Skagway, the main claim to fame for Haines is the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve; the site of the largest collection of bald eagles in the world.

Fort Seward From Across the Bay

Unfortunately the season for seeing eagles in mass is during the months of October and November.  I was told there are thousands of the big birds at that time who are not only prominently visible, but easily approachable to within a few feet.  The reason is that during this time, the eagles in committed feeding frenzy; basically the "lid is off the cookie jar" in the form of dying salmon which are gobbled up by the eagles.

The next day, having completed my tour of Fort Seward, I rode out to Chilkat State Park hoping to catch sight of the black bears (a mother and two cubs) that had been reported to be in the area.

The fishermen were already wading the in the waters of the Chilkat River (hoping the hook one of the early salmons just beginning their annual run up the river); but no bears were seen.  I would have to wait until two days later (when on the ride from Haines to Haines Junction, British Columbia) to catch sight a seemingly friendly bear, caught idly munching at the roadside.

Almost too "seemingly friendly;" unconcerned by my attention, the temptation was to slowly approach closer to get a better photograph.  I had to caution myself, remembering that "this after all a wild black bear" that if threatened by my advance would perhaps - Well, I just didn't push it!

The  Barracks at Ford Seward

However, I'm getting ahead of myself.  After returning from the state park, I went over to the hotel to address their WiFi.  While there working on my computer, I met the congenial Elize Winby Wall who was also working on here computer.
                
We conversed and I learned that she was a casualty of computer downsizing, we discussed are seemingly similar situations - both of us retired, but neither if us by choice!

She said that it was the best thing that ever happened to her; she would have otherwise never started traveling and fully enjoying life - in her words, "I'm having a ball!"

Halsingland Hotel (on  right)

A licensed pilot, who has her own plane, she informed me that her husband (also a licensed pilot) was killed in an aviation accident, and that she had only recently returned to flying herself.

Starting anew - along with her companion, a dentist (and pilot - of course!), have more freedom than most to enjoy life's many wonders; and they seem to be doing quite well - thank you!

Another commonality, Elize is also a bloggers (www.dogfishstudio.com); the people you meet on the road are often the hi-light of traveling.