Airboating and the Denali National Park

Rich and Kathy

Back in Fairbanks once again, I was trying to explore some of the things that I might missed the first time around when I ran into Rich and Kathy Stone outside of the Silver Gulch Brewing & Bottling Company.  Rich was formerly from Michigan's UP (Upper Peninsula) and in spite of the fact that they were out to celebrate their sixth anniversary, they asked me to join them for dinner (I didn't want to intrude on their special occasion but they insisted).

Over dinner Rich (a welder by profession) told me that he had just finished building an airboat for a friend and asked if I had ever ridden in an airboat; my answer was - never.

As result of our conversation I spent the night at Rich & Kathy's (pitching my tent outside, out of respect for the special occasion); and the next day we went airboating with Kurt (the owner of the airboat) and Thomas (one of Rich's co-workers).

Kurt, Rich and Thomas & the Stone Built

No small boat, the "Stone Built," is a 19'- 6" airboat with a 456 cubic inch Chevrolet engine that has been stroked to 496 cubic inches and puts out 600 Horse power.  It is a beautiful boat with 1/8" thick side walls and 1/4" on the bottom which is covered by approximately 5/8" of plastic (neoprene?) which protects the boat from abrasion and reduces friction in the shallow water.  Rich is justifiably proud of his work.

We put in on the Chena River and boated around for about three hours over water that at time was less than six inches deep; but it was no challenge for the "Stone Built".

Cruising the Chena

The Chena is a sizeable river at the point where we put in and there are a number of year around homes that lined the banks for short distance off the highway, before the service access roads gives out and the river becomes the only link back to civilization.  Still there were a number cabins providing temporary housing for those who favor the solitude provided by the limited access.   For them their small cabin in the wilderness is their own little "Peace of Heaven".

After packing up and thanking my hosts, Rich and Kathy, I departed for Denali National Park.
From Fairbanks it is over a 5 1/2 hour ride to Denali and I hoped that the clear and sunny skies would hold together for the entire distance, but such was not the case.

However, I rode in and out of the rain and arrived in Denali with clear and sunny skies once again.

Cabin on the Chena

As expected, Denali has the look and feel of the major resort it is, but surprisingly, I was a able to find a campground for $8 a night (plus four dollars for a shower) - an unexpected bargain.  The Denali Outdoor Center is located on the west side of the highway just to south of the town of Healy.  The only drawback (a minor one) it is about ten miles north of Denali; but it is neat and clean and provides the added perk of whitewater rafting directly out their facility without having to go anywhere.

The half day rafting adventure on the Nenana River was less than $90 and well worth the price.  You can choose between either the scenic trip or the canyon whitewater route - or take them both for about $120.  Having been told that the scenic trip was more or less just a float trip, I went for

Load it Up!

"the whitewater adventure."

Riding in the front of the raft, I was glad for the protection that the dry suit provided from the icy waters fresh off the glacial melt.  The class 3 & 4 rapids through which we passed were not life threatening, but were nonetheless, truly a "BLAST".  With "Thirsty" (one can only guess how he got that "moniker") at the helm - barking out orders - we roared our way through the rapids; whooping, yelling and "high-fiving" as we went.

The  Winding Nenana River

Despite its monstrous size (6.2 million acres - about the size of the state of Massachusetts), Denali is only the third largest of our national parks.  Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is the largest and the second largest is the Gates of the Arctic National Park.  The four largest of America's national parks are all located in the state of Alaska (Less you have to Google it - #4 is the Katmai National Park).

I had been looking forward with a great deal of anticipation to going to Denali National Park, and it truly is a very special and spectacular place; nonetheless, I was disappointed.

In my anticipation, I had perceived riding through the park and enjoying the sights and sounds at my own leisurely pace, but it was not to be.

Of the ninety miles of the only main roadway leading into Denali, only the first 12 miles are accessible to the general public by a wheeled vehicle of any type.  For many of us, Mt. McKinley is the focal point of the park, but is more than seventy-five miles (as a crow flies) from the park entrance.  Wonder Lake, some 80 miles into the park; one is still 25 miles from Mt. McKinley.

Motorcycling Along Denali's First 12 Miles

Despite what I've said, Denali (which derives its name from an Indian word meaning "the Great One") is surprisingly accessible to anyone who has the time, energy and inclination to explore its environs.  Even though Denali is the habitat of black bear, grizzly bear, moose, wolverine and caribou, hikers and bicyclers are free to roam the park (seemingly uncontrolled).

Unfortunately, for the greatest number of tourists, who are traveling by vehicle are limited to the first 12 miles before being "herded" aboard one of the multitude of school busses turned tour-bus.  Their best hope is to just get a glimpse of wildlife with the aid of field glasses and looking out the pulled down bus window.

Dall Sheep Rams

We saw a number of animals over the course of the our eleven hour bus ride, but I was less than excited by the bear and caribou that I saw from about 400 yards away and even the Dall Sheep that were at least worthy of a photo shot (the photo would have been great with the proper lens and tripod).  For the most part, however, I was dismayed for the loss of photographic opportunities(mostly scenic) over which I had no control.

In fairness, it must be said that one is free to get off the bus at any point along the route and get back on another bus going in either direction.  Sounds fine, but I for one would rather travel along the roadway at my own pace, stopping and photographing, hiking or just relaxing at will; harboring no feelings of guilt for bothering the other passengers.  

Foothills of Mt. McKinley

The park service claims that the reason for not allowing the general public free access to theentire ninety miles of roadway, is there desire to control the traffic flow.  Forgive me for being suspect, but I had no difficulty motorcycling along the first twelve miles of roadway; my suspicion is that its - "All About Money".

The park service, no doubt, receives (as well it should) a healthy stipends from the privately run enterprise which holds the right to run busses through Denali National Park.