The Caverns of Sonora and the West Texas Hills

Heading west out of Austin, my first stop was expected to be Stockton, Texas.  From there it would be decision time, whether to go north to Carlsbad Caverns National Park and by-pass to Big Bend National Park, or add Big Bend to the itinerary - I already knew what the decision would be.

In case you're wondering, the entire Panama plan has been abandon.  Perhaps, the decision to not go there was made when the mother of my Louisiana friend (Bernie's mother), Miss Genevieve (or as everyone calls her) stated so succinctly - "don't go to Mexico - They'll Kill You!"  It's hard to argue with such candor.

I don't like to vacillate, and announce one plan only change it at a later date; and so, I will only state for the time being, that after Big Bend, I'm going - "that away, (north) and places in-between"      

The ride out of Austin took me in into the West Texas Hill Country (a term that I didn't recall having heard before).  Due to my late departure, I was expecting to take a more or less straight shot to Fort Stockton; however, with no time constraints (and, perhaps, because it's - just my nature) I have a tendency to want to see it all.  In any case, it just didn't seem right to pass through Johnson City without a making a stop at the Linden Baines Johnson (LBJ) Ranch.

In what's probably a common tourist mistake, but I learned that the LBJ Ranch is not, in fact, in Johnson City at all - it is listed as a Stonewall, Texas address.

In fact, Johnson City was named for LBJ's second-cousin James Polk Johnson (and not his grandfather as is often mistakenly stated).

The LBJ Ranch (also known as the Western Whitehouse) is located on the banks of the Pedernales River and covers over 700 acres.  It is beautiful bucolic setting with green grass, the flowing Pedernales River and numerous deer running along its banks.  I very much enjoyed the time spent there; however, if you are traveling through the area and are constrained by time, you might well decide to pass up the LBJ Ranch - this time it will be your decision.

Farther, down the road on highway 290, is the old historic town of Fredericksburg (noted for its numerous and very interesting bed and breakfast homes).  I didn't stay long, but just a walk down Main Street to see old historic buildings was a treat.  

It was Friday when I arrived and the town was hosting one of the many week-end car shows that it hosts throughout the year; and also, was preparing for the following week-ends Annual Crawfish Festival.  Fredericksburg seems to have something going on throughout the year.

With all of the unexpected stops, I knew that there was not any way that I would make it even close to Stockton before dark; and after a quick check of the map, I continued westward hoping to find a campground around Sonora, Texas.

Finally, as it was turning dusk, I made it to Sonora, Texas, still in quest of a campsite.

At the service station, the lady advised me that the only campgrounds that she knew of were at the Caverns of Sonora (about eight miles to the west).  Her directions were good, and I arrived there with just enough daylight left to set up my campsite before resting for the night.

The next morning, as I was paying for my campsite (due to last night's late arrival), the girl began to give her very convincing sales pitch for the Caverns of Sonora.   I was sold (I'm kind of an easy sale, as you might have already guessed); but it was no mistake, the caverns are beautiful, an 85% living cave that extends for some 7 miles of explored areas, and who knows how many miles lie beyond - yet to be discovered.  The owners (Sonora Caverns are privately owned) have chosen to discontinue further exploration for the time being.

I have yet to visit Carlsbad Caverns, but I've been to Mammoth Onyx Cave and more recently to Longhorn Cavern and they pale on comparison with the beauty of Sonora Caverns - in my opinion, you have dive to the depths of the ocean to see such comparable beauty as found in crystalline formations of Sonora Caverns.